Bismark ND (Mile 1312) to Pierre SD(Mile 1065)

I'm now in Pierre the capital city of South Dakota having spent eleven days on Lake Oahe. Oahe has the reputation of being the most dangerous lake along the Missouri River, not just for paddlers but also for fishing and recreational boats with large outboard motors. Best advice is to get to shore at the first signs of deteriorating weather; everybody I spoke to had stories of unpredictable weather changes and storms that created huge waves. 

While I was spared the worst of it I did get a taste for strong headwinds and rough water during the day and spectacular lightning storms at night. The difficult paddling was sometimes made sweeter by tail winds that allowed me to sail for ten mile stretches at high speed, at times having to reef my sail down to half its size to prevent overtaking the wave in front and possibly turning the kayak sideways to the wind. 

Apologies for the poor quality but check out this clip ......

The lake is over 230 miles long with 2,250 miles of shoreline made up of undulating grassy hills, shingle beaches and shady bays that offer good shelter from the weather. It's hard at times to believe you are crossing freshwater as it feels and looks more like an ocean coastline. The lake meanders in places doubling back on itself causing you to paddle 20 miles only to be 2 miles the other side of the hill that you were at 5 hours before. When still the water  becomes crystal clear allowing you to see fish 10 - 15 feet down; Australia would just love a dozen lakes like this scattered throughout the interior.

The current helped carry me into the lake from Bismark and I made 37 miles the first day and camped near Fort Rice. Fort Rice was established in1864, the first of a chain of forts intended to provide protection for Euro-American settlers. Fort Rice became one of the most important military posts on the Upper Missouri River.

Surprisingly I caught up with Tyler and Tom on the second day and I paddled on and off with them  as our paths crossed; their strategy for navigating the lake was different to mine.

Here they are complaining about the heat ...........

The hospitality continues:

I heard that I could get a burger, a shower and my laundry done at the StateLine Resort so I called in and met the Moser family that own and run the place, as well as a farming property that raises buffalo, grows corn and other crops that I saw but can't remember what they were.

Diane and Ken own the campground and RV park but let their grandson Jackson run the show. He's a really nice young man that is going places in life. He speaks fluent spanish and is studying criminology at university with the aim of joining the FBI or similar; I suspect he will end up running the agency one day.

Ken and Diane with grandaughter (?) and grandson Jackson

Son KJ runs the farming property that straddles the North and South Dakota border. KJ gave me a tour of the farm and explained how they raise the buffalo ready for market and how the huge circular water irrigators work.

With KJ on the farm

With the herd

Headwinds forced TnT ashore and we all stayed for two nights. It was so hot the second night that KJ gave us the use of his air conditioned RV and told us to watch some dvd's and help ourselves to burgers and beer in the fridge - we did. Diane had fed us buffalo cheeseburgers during the day - a more generous, welcoming family you'd be hard pressed to find. 

The boys in the bar

Jackson took us in to the town of Pollock on the saturday evening to hear a rock band performing at the annual Dairy Days festival. I thought the fireworks were to celebrate me paddling 1,000 miles but apparently not. 

Not the 1,000 mile firework celebration.

First South Dakotan sunset

Lake Oahe wild life

Shady campsite Lake Oahe

My paddling book advised me to call in at the Bridge City Marina which I did and again had that good fortune of meeting the owners, the Norder family have recently bought the place. Daughter inlaw Blythe and son Brent gave me a good rate on a large cabin with 6 bunks and ensuite shower/toilet. I sent a text to TnT on the off chance that there were coming through town and wanting a break - they turned up not long after. Headwinds forced us to stay two nights and dad Mike spent the afternoon running me around town and then invited the three of us to a barbecue that evening with his family.

Here they are: Blythe, Brent Ashton, Mike and Jesse and the twin boys with Tom, myself and Tyler at the back.

Sundown on Lake Oahe

.... and another.

I met Doug Jasa at Bush's Landing as he was pulling his boat out after a days fishing with three friends. I asked if there was a campground nearby where I could get a shower and meal, he said there was but I could use his shower and he'd give me lift to the cafe later.

Doug owns a holiday home high above Lake Oahe with panoramic views for 30 miles up and downstream. The guys invited me to stay the night and cooked a fine meal of their days catch - Walleye, the choice fish of the region - grilled, marinated crumbed and deep fried with  grilled pheasant, a spinach salad and a few beers. For an entree Doug cooked me a premium beef burger covered in cheese as he knew I'd been hanging out for one. We spent the evening in the basement home theatre watching a war movie on the big screen.

Lots of interesting furnishings in the house, mostly hunting and fishing related, including a bison head on the wall called Bob.

Bob, Bob and Doug

 

Doug's neighbours are building a solid log home overlooking the lake.

The guys, Doug, Lance and Bill (Jim not in the picture unfortunately)

I left in the morning with an invite to call Doug in a few weeks when I get to Omaha, Nebraska.

The next night I made it to Pike's Haven (about 25 river miles) where they have a reputation for serving the best rib-eye steaks anywhere on the river. I needed the protein so ordered the special of the day, it hit the spot and I paddled 35 miles to the dam the next day.

The boys in the bar - George, Greg, me and Ron.

 

A Lake Oahe beach

Those of you that have never paddled a 239 mile lake may not appreciate the sheer relief and joy of feeling the keel slide up the take-out ramp at the end. It was just bliss akin to "one small step for man .....". 

College students Cabe, Colin and Dylan turned up with a jet ski and I asked if they'ed portage me on their trailer to the marina below the dam, they did and I bought them a case of beer.

I had no idea if TnT were in front or behind but an hour later they turned up and we had a six pack celebration before we put into the current for a final paddle to Pierre, SD.

Lake Oahe survivors - are we happy or what?

I went to Fort Pierre on the right hand shore as I needed to collect a package from Barb at the Post Office there. I'm missing her terribly, she would have loved the sights I've seen, the experiences I've had and meeting the people I'v'e met (and they her) but I know she wouldn't have enjoyed the effort to get there. 

Shortly after coming ashore in the dark Pat Welland, a local river paddler, turned up for a chat and offer of assistance if I need it while in the area. Pat has been following my progress over the last few weeks and has been in contact by email and text. He is very knowledgable on the river conditions downstream and his offer of help is much appreciated. 

Norm and Kristen also sent me a food package of all the things a paddler would enjoy at the half way mark. TnT went to the city proper on the left hand shore.

Food package from the Bozeman support crew - bloody legends!

I crossed the river the following day to a marina/campground where I knew I could get a shower; I tied up next to TnT's canoe. They weren't there but I met Leroy on holiday from Minnesota. Some people you just click with and he and I spent a couple of hours solving the problems of the world as we waited for the bar to open - I can't remember when I've laughed so much. He's a retired postal worker visiting his brother here. His dad was the county sheriff back in Minnesota and when he died Leroy scored his sheriffs star that he keeps in wallet just handy enough to flash to highway patrolman when he gets stopped for speeding or an ID check - he's not got a ticket in 20 years!

I asked him about the upcoming election "I don't like either of them" he said "I kinda liked Sarah Palin" ... say no more.

Leroy - the greatest guy visiting the river in 2012.

The bar and bait shop at the marina are owned by Shelley, here she is with a couple of bad boys that she's known since school days. I met her husband Dwayne and two of her four children that live with here in Pierre. She is a great hostess that looks after all her customers well, especially TnT that are travelling on a shoestring budget. I worry for the business as I don't hear the cash register ringing much over the laughter in the bar.

Seriously bad boys Jay and Gary with me (good boy) and Shelley.

Pat Welland turned up last night to meet TnT before they leave today, I'll catch them up in a day or two.

Thanks for all the emails and messages I really appreciate it.